Chalais (km 0)

The town

Famous for its fairs and markets, the modern part stands on the banks of the Tude and runs up the hill to the old town. The imposing Talleyrand-Périgord castle overlooks the entire valley.

The Talleyrand-Périgord castle

The steep narrow streets in the high part of the town and the drawbridge (still in operation) lead to the main courtyard.

Things to see :

• the square courtyard with its machicolations, the main building restored between the 16th and 17th centuries, and the splendid view over the roofs of Chalais from the avenue of lime trees.
  Info : +33 5 45 98 31 00
  
• the church of Saint-Martial. Just a stone's throw from the castle, the Romanesque church has a superb façade with a multifoil portal and tympana sculpted in high relief.

Things to see nearby :

• the cloister with its arcades and square tower restored in the 17th and 19th centuries.
• veal from Chalais. This is a controlled label of origin (AOC) veal from Chalais, reared in the fields and fed by its mother.
  Where to find it :
  Boucherie Enard, place de l'hôtel de ville.
  Info : +33 5 45 98 02 85
  Boucherie Chaume Frères, avenue de la gare.
  Info : +33 5 45 98 12 62
  

Yviers (km 12)

The Museum of the unusual is a house rather along the lines of Heath Robinson, objects being used for unintended purposes, statues of goats wearing boots unbridled imagination, a touch anarchistic and classified among the one hundred most unusual houses in France.
Info : +33 5 45 98 02 65

Brossac (km 30)

3 hectares of fresh water surrounded by moors and oak trees, the Vallier lake is ideal for bathing or walking in the forest.

Chillac (km 37)

The lords of Chillac ruled over the entire area from the 11th century. The 15th century castle is not open for visits but its three pepper pot towers and buildings are well worth a look from the road.

Berneuil (km 40)

The Romanesque church of Notre-Dame

Dating from the 12th century, this is a fine example of the Saintonge Romanesque style.

Astonishing :

• in the Chapelle de la Chaise there is a collection of liturgical objects on display from the very ordinary to the most astonishing and rare.

Montmoreau-Saint-Cybard (km 59)

Montmoreau is built on the mont des Maures, a region of wooded limestone valleys and fields. The squat 15th century castle can only be viewed from the outside but the 12th century Romanesque chapel is open to enable visitors to admire the carved décor of tracery, foliage and figures.

Also to be seen :

• the church of Saint-Denis with its multifoil portal, its tympana carved with lions' heads, its apse and arcades.

La Prade (km 76)

Bruce Hocking has set up a cottage brewery in a farm where he brews lagers, white beer, cherry or pear-flavoured beers The brewery can be visited in the summer.
Info : +33 5 45 98 54 92

Aubeterre-sur-Dronne (km 78)

Aubeterre, perched on a hill, is one of the "Most beautiful villages in France". Set out like an amphitheatre on the limestone cliff, it "watches over" the neighbouring Dordogne and the valley of the Dronne which flows past at the foot of the cliff. Explore the village as you walk up the steep rue du Minage to the medieval castle via the Cordeliers convent, the former hospice and admire the flowers whose heads rise above the dry stone walls.

Also to be seen :

• the troglodyte church of Saint-Jean, the largest underground church in Europe. The 20 m high nave is carved out of the rock face.
• the church of Saint-Jacques, which was a staging post for pilgrims on their way to Compostelle, with its sculpted façade depicting the work of the month, the signs of the Zodiac and the multifoil portal.

Bathing and paddling :

• in the river Dronne, at the foot of the village.

Saint-Quentin de Chalais (km 90)

As you head back towards Chalais, take a moment to stop in the village, Phillipe Doussaint kneads and cooks excellent bread in a wood-fired oven.

Return to Chalais (km 93)