Ruffec (km 0)

Ruffec is built on a hill by the bank of the Lien. Until the 18th century the town was surrounded by marshes. The duke of Broglie had them canalised and ever since it has been a pleasure to stroll along the Lien with its cool gardens, its wash-house and mill. Wander through the old town to discover the half-timbered houses, the Pontereau quarter and the church of Saint-André.

Things to observe :

• the Romanesque facede (12th century) of the church composed of high statues depicting the Apostles and a Christ in glory, the arching of the portal with foliated scrolls and various animals frisking about.

Also to see :

• the castle, which overlooks the Lien, belonged to the duke of Saint-Simon (the famous portrait painter). The castle is not open for visits but the narrow road leading up to it is full of flowers and is bordered by low stone walls.

Villefagnan (km 10)

This small town set in the plain used to be a bastion of the Reformed Religion. The gateway standing between two pepper pot towers has survived from the 16th century castle. Visit the Conservatory of Rural Art inside the halls (19th century Charente interior, agricultural tools) and the site of the Pierres Blanches windmill which reproduces the activities of a 19th century mill.

Bathing, fishing :

• in the Trois Fontaines lake.

Paizay-Naudoin (km 20)

Saveille (15th century), which was a veritable centre for Calvinism, is one of the largest castles in the Ruffec area. The high walls, surrounded by moats, the great tower, the machicolations and Renaissance gable windows can be admired from the outside only from mid-July to mid-September.
Info : +33 5 45 31 60 36

Saint-Fraigne (km 30)

This village was constructed on marshes between two tributaries of the river Charente, the Osme and the Couture. There is special natural habitat here, composed of humid zones. With the creation of the Arborescence in the heart of the Osme and the festival of gardens, the commune has revived its links with this natural environment which is the basis of its history, its economy (hemp, linen, peat there is room for all to thrive).

Also to see :

• in the church, the contemporary expressionist frescoes by Louis Mazetier, artist and master glassmaker.

Tusson (km 37)

Prehistoric tumuli, vestiges of the former priory des Dames, fine renaissance houses are signs of the vitality of the village over the centuries. Tusson is now a protected village where the local authorities and the Marpen club have carried out several restoration projects. Follow the flower and aromas trail to explore the village.

Enter :

• the medieval monastery garden laid out round the jardin des simples, the jardin des senteurs, the cemetery orchard. Varieties are grown here which were familiar in the 15th century.
• the Logis de Marguerite d'Angoulême (the sister of François l withdrew here) which houses the Heritage Centre.
  Info : +33 5 45 31 17 47
  

Stretch your legs :

• in the forest which stands at the edge of Tusson.

Ligné (km 42)

The cemetery in this small village contains 70 medieval gravestones and a hosanna cross (18th century).

Lonnes (km 48)

Another small villages for lovers of traditional Charente houses where the Marpen club is renovating rural houses from the 17th and 18th centuries.

Lichères (km 55)

To one side of the town, a small country road leads to Saint-Denis, a Romanesque church standing in the fields. This former priory, founded in the 12th century by the monks of Charroux, is the only example in the Angoumois area of a nave with side aisles separated by antique columns.

Examine the details :

• the sculpted tympanum set under an arch decorated with fantastic animals.
• all round the church, small characters and animals frisking on the modillions.

Pull on the rope :

• very close to the church a path leads to the Charente. A boat is available to cross the river whenever you want. All you have to do is pull on the rope to glide to the other side.

Bayers (km 60)

The castle

Built on a rock overlooking the Charente, the watchtower castle, whose earliest foundations date from the 11th century, offered an observation point of the ford across the river.

Explore :

• the main building, the Roman tower, the terrace leading to the river, the path round the battlements, the square keep.
  Info : +33 5 45 22 54 74
  

Poursac (km 66)

The monjhette is a small white haricot bean, a delicious speciality of the Charente. Yves Perrin grows and sells them every day on his farm from July to September.
Info : +33 5 45 29 66 62

Verteuil (km 70)

The village

Its medieval houses, the Aumonerie quarter

The castle

Which dates from the 15th and 18th centuries, stands on a terrace overlooking the river and is surrounded by tall trees. It is said that certain trees were planted by Charles Quint during his visit in 1539. It was here that the duke of La Rochefoucauld wrote his famous "Maximes".

The entombment

The church of Saint-Médard contains a remarkable piece of polychrome earthenware statuary art (16th century) : the entombment (it was originally ordered for the castle chapel).

The mill

This former grain mill of the castle is driven by the waters of the Charente. Production of stone-ground flour.
Info : +33 5 45 29 04 77

Taste :

• the girdle cakes and the stone-ground bread as they come out of the oven.

Nanteuil-en-Vallée (km 73)

This small town is set in a nest of vegetation and the Argentor flows at its feet. Half-timbered houses, mullioned windows and the fountain are the highlights of a stroll through the medieval streets.

More walking :

• in the arboretum, on the edge of the canal and in the heart of the town.

Condac (km 76)

As you head back towards Ruffec, the river comes closer. At Condac, it widens, breaks into branches, islands appear, the water cascades gently.

There is bathing at Réjallant where footbridges take you from one island to another.

Return to Ruffec (km 87)